The most awe-striking moments in life are those discovered at unexpected times and places. Jessica Koslow, the chef and proprietor of SQIRL, has created a haven for hand-crafted preserves and irresistible farm-to-mouth inspired breakfast and brunch creations in an inconspicuous location at 720 N. Virgil between Temple and Sunset.
Although I live on the west side of town, I trek almost every Sunday for a culinary tour de force of the East Side, which has become an emerging hub for incomparable food. My trek begins at the Hollywood Farmers Market, the most comprehensive farmers market in Southern California next to the Santa Monica Farmers Market on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Then, I drive to my dear friends' McCall's Meat and Fish Market on Hillhurst to purchase the most pristine seafood, ogle over the marbled meats and house-made sausages, and indulge in a baguette from their expanded Bakery space, which equal those of Eric Kayser's baguettes in Paris. Finally, I consummate the experience with my final resting place at SQIRL for truly a ridiculous brunch.
Although I live on the west side of town, I trek almost every Sunday for a culinary tour de force of the East Side, which has become an emerging hub for incomparable food. My trek begins at the Hollywood Farmers Market, the most comprehensive farmers market in Southern California next to the Santa Monica Farmers Market on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Then, I drive to my dear friends' McCall's Meat and Fish Market on Hillhurst to purchase the most pristine seafood, ogle over the marbled meats and house-made sausages, and indulge in a baguette from their expanded Bakery space, which equal those of Eric Kayser's baguettes in Paris. Finally, I consummate the experience with my final resting place at SQIRL for truly a ridiculous brunch.
First and foremost, the preserves. Chef Jessica sources only from local farmers within a 350 mile radius of her location. Most recently, I sought out her Blenheim Apricot preserves which I heard from James Birch, the owner of Flora Bella Farms in Three Rivers, that Chef Jessica sourced from his recent, limited season, crop, to produce this quintessentially perfect Apricot apocalypse. I got lucky---two jars left! Caveat emptor----her stock sells out quickly. I also purchased the Strawberry-Rose Geranium jam which Chef Jessica sourced the seascape strawberries from McGrath Family Farm in Camarillo. Chef Jessica literally and figuratively preserves the integrity of the fruit by keeping the ingredients limited to the organic fruit, herbs if included to add complexity, and minimal fair trade organic sugar and absence of commercial pectin. What more could you ever desire?
As you walk into the narrow interior space to give your order, you will notice on the right of you the hand-written menu on the chalkboard. My standard for meeting the initial threshold for a great spot to eat is when you have extreme difficulty in choosing what to order from the menu. In this case, SQIRL so surpassed this threshold that I chose to defer to Chef Jessica for a recommendation as well as follow my instinct on my two coursed brunch.
Chef Jessica's recommendation to me was the pesto-flavored heirloom Kokuho Rose brown rice with a soft egg. Unlike any pesto I ever had or made myself, the pesto was made with sorrel and preserved Meyer lemon to add another layer of complexity to this seemingly simple dish. Jessica's talented chef, Ria, added feta cheese, imparting a mild saltiness to this sublime creation and imbued an underlying and complementary heat with house-made, lacto-fermented hot sauce. Thinly shaved black radishes garnished the dish which gave it further texture, flavor and composition to the circular creaminess of the egg yolk.
My instinctual choice was a market salad with seasonal vegetables, including the shining star of the summer harvest, heirloom cherry tomatoes, topped with a luscious sheep cheese from Fat Bottom Girl farm. The dressing was made with fermented mustard seeds to create a house-made dijon, emulsified with extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice and a touch of salt.
For those who have eaten at SQIRL know that seating is limited. However, from August 5 - August 15, SQIRL will be closed for renovation and expansion which will include a second kitchen and additional seating in the adjacent space which was formerly a small grocery. This adjacent space will also be the new home of Lou's Wine and Provisions, formerly on Vine Street in Hollywood, where you can not only taste wine but also purchase bottles of cult, artisanal wine producers from around the globe.
SQIRL is located at 720 North Virgil, #4, Los Angeles, CA 90029, open M-F from 7 am to 4 p.m. and S-S from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., www.sqirlla.com.
SQIRL is located at 720 North Virgil, #4, Los Angeles, CA 90029, open M-F from 7 am to 4 p.m. and S-S from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., www.sqirlla.com.