I've learned from a dear friend of mine back in 2005 that the best panacea for a challenging, long-distance journey is a comforting meal soon after arriving at one's destination. I took this advice for my recent visit to Abu Dhabi and Dubai in the United Arab Emirates. At the recommendation of a very reliable source in Buffalo, New York, I ventured to one of the spectacular, modern designed and towering skyscrapers that line the urban landscape of this 42 year old country---Jumeirah at Etihad Towers. At these twin towers, there resides a Lebanese restaurant called Li Beirut. Unique about this exquisite restaurant is the juxtaposition of traditional and innovation of the Lebanese cuisine cushioned by a welcoming level of service led by Jamal that engenders a nostalgic feeling of eating at home.
To start, Jamal brings out a medley of raw vegetables, olives, almonds, olive oil with herbs, foccacia and airy, white bread pockets to scoop everything to come.
Chef Mahmoud Efranjyeh who formerly worked at one of the distinguished restaurants at the Armani Hotel located in the tallest building in the world, the Burj Khalifa, in Dubai, begins the feast with innovation---a lentil soup with a milk foam that not only airates the soup but also creams it.
Tradition began with the timeless plate of hummus. In this case, Chef Mahmoud plays with the alliteration of pureed chickpeas and whole chickpeas sitting in a bed of unctuous olive oil.
Chef Mahmoud then follows with another traditional starter of taboulleh which the white bread pockets served as perfect vessels for this fine example of another Middle Eastern comfort food.
This next dish highlights the brilliance of Chef Mahmoud's creativity and innovation for taking a traditional Lebanese dish and turning it into a magical, new bite. Chef uses Baba Ghanoush as the central feature and then adding Atlantic poached Lobster for its resting place with a dollop of creme fraiche with Royal Ossetra Caviar to pique your senses. Chef Mahmoud then lines the plate with Yellow Fin Tuna and garnishes it with dill and pistachio dressing.
The zenith of my Middle Eastern, culinary experience at Li Beirut was the Falafel. In fact, it is safe to say that the Falafel here equals the Falafel I've had many of time at L'As Du Fallafel at 34 Rue des Rosiers in the Marais quarter of Paris.
Chef Mahmoud was munificent enough to share the below recipe of this delicious delight that dances delirium inside.
Ingredients: 1 kilogram of chick peas dired; 100 grams of garlic peeled; 100 grams of red onion; 20 grams of bicarbonate soda; 80 grams of coriander leaves; 80 grams of flat parsley; 30 grams of cumin powder; 30 grams of coriander powder; 15 grams of white sesame seeds; 90 grams of salt; 200 milliliters of trans fat free frying oil; 150 grams of mixed pickle.
Method: soak the chick peas overnight; wash and strain from the water; mix the onion, garlic, fresh coriander, fresh parsley, together with the food processed to become a dough; transfer into mixing bowl; season, add cumin powder, baking soda, coriander seeds, sesame seed, mix gently; portion small balls and deep fry.
Chef Mahmoud was munificent enough to share the below recipe of this delicious delight that dances delirium inside.
Ingredients: 1 kilogram of chick peas dired; 100 grams of garlic peeled; 100 grams of red onion; 20 grams of bicarbonate soda; 80 grams of coriander leaves; 80 grams of flat parsley; 30 grams of cumin powder; 30 grams of coriander powder; 15 grams of white sesame seeds; 90 grams of salt; 200 milliliters of trans fat free frying oil; 150 grams of mixed pickle.
Method: soak the chick peas overnight; wash and strain from the water; mix the onion, garlic, fresh coriander, fresh parsley, together with the food processed to become a dough; transfer into mixing bowl; season, add cumin powder, baking soda, coriander seeds, sesame seed, mix gently; portion small balls and deep fry.
These heartfelt moments of impassioned respect for craft and soulful familiarity indelibly remain in my food consciousness. Chef Mahmoud represents the young generation of chefs that are thriving and setting a new precedent in our awareness of the global, culinary potential. Li Beirut is located at Jumeirah at Etihad Towers, West Corniche, PO Box 111929, Abu Dhabi, UAE, telephone: +971 2 811 5666, hours are lunch from 12 p.m. to 3 p.m. and dinner from 7 p.m. to midnight.