15 years ago in September of 1998, I had the great fortune to experience Lucques (named after a French olive) that became the place that I feel most at home to eat, drink, and just be in Los Angeles. Coincidentally, the exact date of Lucques’ opening in 1998, September 25, was also Chef Suzanne Goin’s birthday. What a way to celebrate! Fast forward to this month, Lucques is celebrating their 15th year anniversary.
At the time, Jessica Goin, Suzanne’s sister, ran the front of the house, while Suzanne was leaving an indelible impression in Southern California, extending the reach of New American cuisine as influenced by the seasons and ingredients of the French Mediterranean that Alice Waters started in the 1970s at Chez Panisse. Alongside Suzanne as partner in Lucques, Caroline Styne was setting new standards in bringing artisanal wine producers to our consciousness. However, this dynamic female trio in the culinary world that has been generally dominated by males didn’t do it alone. They have had a long-standing staff of dedicated lovers of the family culture that Suzanne, Caroline and Jessica created in this intimately designed space that feels like home the moment you walk in. Corina Weibel was one of the founding family members that helped Suzanne open up Lucques, becoming the Chef de Cuisine. Julie Robles is another original gem of the Lucques family who continues to launch new ventures for Suzanne and Caroline, whether it was AOC in West Hollywood or Tavern in Brentwood. On the server side, Raf has been one of the mainstays who with his accent and love for gardening would warm your evening with his inviting personality and endearing kindness.
One of the early menu items that took on immediate fame was Suzanne’s Devil’s Chicken. As I recall, the conception of this dish came from Suzanne’s inadvertent detour from a Julia Child recipe. Check out the recipe in Food and Wine at: http://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/devils-chicken-with-mustard-and-bread-crumbs. In case you don’t feel like cooking this delectable dish, now you can purchase this dish at one of Suzanne and Caroline’s Larders as a prepared take-out item. Currently, they have Larders at the Tavern in Brentwood and Burton Way in Beverly Hills. Soon to come is a LAX location.
Another dish which founding patrons like myself would request to stay on the menu from season to season is the Braised Short Ribs with creamy horseradish. Like the Devil’s Chicken, you can also purchase this item as a prepared take out item at the Larder. So it seems, the Larder has now become the alternative source for all of the Lucques, long-standing favorites.
I also reminisce in years past about the one dish I would always order late night after an evening of carousing---the inimitable steak frites béarnaise. Although this flat iron steak is unquestionably fantastic, Lucques has always been one of my top spots for French Fries, the only sin I commit in life and my primary reason for ordering this dish. Inexorably, one must order these fries with plenty of Heinz 57 ketchup on the side---the only way to ride.
Suzanne has always been a Slow Food movement advocate, sourcing from local sustainable farmers and purveyors of produce, meat and fish. Whenever you find arugula in a dish at Lucques, for example, more likely than not, it is from James Birch’s Flora Bella Farms in Three Rivers. Suzanne also sources her market lettuces from Coleman Farms, which most chefs now recognize as the source for delicately sweet varietals, such as little gems and lollo rosso. Suzanne also supports another farm located in Tehachapi that we all love and adore---Weiser Family Farms.
I would like to extend my celebratory wishes of 15 years of delicious food, fine wine, and beloved friendship to Suzanne, Caroline, Jessica, Cynthia, Matt and all the other Lucques family members that have made our lives at Lucques a sweeter place to be.
Lucques is located at 8474 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 655-6277, Monday 6 p.m. to 10 p.m., Tues – Thurs 12:00 – 2:30 p.m., 6:00 – 10:00 p.m.; Fri - Sat 12:00 – 2:30 p.m., 6:00 – 10:30 p.m., Sun 5:00 – 10:00 p.m., www.lucques.com.
One of the early menu items that took on immediate fame was Suzanne’s Devil’s Chicken. As I recall, the conception of this dish came from Suzanne’s inadvertent detour from a Julia Child recipe. Check out the recipe in Food and Wine at: http://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/devils-chicken-with-mustard-and-bread-crumbs. In case you don’t feel like cooking this delectable dish, now you can purchase this dish at one of Suzanne and Caroline’s Larders as a prepared take-out item. Currently, they have Larders at the Tavern in Brentwood and Burton Way in Beverly Hills. Soon to come is a LAX location.
Another dish which founding patrons like myself would request to stay on the menu from season to season is the Braised Short Ribs with creamy horseradish. Like the Devil’s Chicken, you can also purchase this item as a prepared take out item at the Larder. So it seems, the Larder has now become the alternative source for all of the Lucques, long-standing favorites.
I also reminisce in years past about the one dish I would always order late night after an evening of carousing---the inimitable steak frites béarnaise. Although this flat iron steak is unquestionably fantastic, Lucques has always been one of my top spots for French Fries, the only sin I commit in life and my primary reason for ordering this dish. Inexorably, one must order these fries with plenty of Heinz 57 ketchup on the side---the only way to ride.
Suzanne has always been a Slow Food movement advocate, sourcing from local sustainable farmers and purveyors of produce, meat and fish. Whenever you find arugula in a dish at Lucques, for example, more likely than not, it is from James Birch’s Flora Bella Farms in Three Rivers. Suzanne also sources her market lettuces from Coleman Farms, which most chefs now recognize as the source for delicately sweet varietals, such as little gems and lollo rosso. Suzanne also supports another farm located in Tehachapi that we all love and adore---Weiser Family Farms.
I would like to extend my celebratory wishes of 15 years of delicious food, fine wine, and beloved friendship to Suzanne, Caroline, Jessica, Cynthia, Matt and all the other Lucques family members that have made our lives at Lucques a sweeter place to be.
Lucques is located at 8474 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 655-6277, Monday 6 p.m. to 10 p.m., Tues – Thurs 12:00 – 2:30 p.m., 6:00 – 10:00 p.m.; Fri - Sat 12:00 – 2:30 p.m., 6:00 – 10:30 p.m., Sun 5:00 – 10:00 p.m., www.lucques.com.