One of the early menu items that took on immediate fame was Suzanne’s Devil’s Chicken. As I recall, the conception of this dish came from Suzanne’s inadvertent detour from a Julia Child recipe. Check out the recipe in Food and Wine at: http://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/devils-chicken-with-mustard-and-bread-crumbs. In case you don’t feel like cooking this delectable dish, now you can purchase this dish at one of Suzanne and Caroline’s Larders as a prepared take-out item. Currently, they have Larders at the Tavern in Brentwood and Burton Way in Beverly Hills. Soon to come is a LAX location.
Another dish which founding patrons like myself would request to stay on the menu from season to season is the Braised Short Ribs with creamy horseradish. Like the Devil’s Chicken, you can also purchase this item as a prepared take out item at the Larder. So it seems, the Larder has now become the alternative source for all of the Lucques, long-standing favorites.
I also reminisce in years past about the one dish I would always order late night after an evening of carousing---the inimitable steak frites béarnaise. Although this flat iron steak is unquestionably fantastic, Lucques has always been one of my top spots for French Fries, the only sin I commit in life and my primary reason for ordering this dish. Inexorably, one must order these fries with plenty of Heinz 57 ketchup on the side---the only way to ride.
Suzanne has always been a Slow Food movement advocate, sourcing from local sustainable farmers and purveyors of produce, meat and fish. Whenever you find arugula in a dish at Lucques, for example, more likely than not, it is from James Birch’s Flora Bella Farms in Three Rivers. Suzanne also sources her market lettuces from Coleman Farms, which most chefs now recognize as the source for delicately sweet varietals, such as little gems and lollo rosso. Suzanne also supports another farm located in Tehachapi that we all love and adore---Weiser Family Farms.
I would like to extend my celebratory wishes of 15 years of delicious food, fine wine, and beloved friendship to Suzanne, Caroline, Jessica, Cynthia, Matt and all the other Lucques family members that have made our lives at Lucques a sweeter place to be.
Lucques is located at 8474 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 655-6277, Monday 6 p.m. to 10 p.m., Tues – Thurs 12:00 – 2:30 p.m., 6:00 – 10:00 p.m.; Fri - Sat 12:00 – 2:30 p.m., 6:00 – 10:30 p.m., Sun 5:00 – 10:00 p.m., www.lucques.com.